Thursday, November 6, 2014

Cyprus

Ever since reading the book "Exodus" by Leon Uris 15 years ago, I have had a desire to visit Cyprus. Although the book only shed light on the refugee camps for displaced European Jews after the second  World War, the island came under my radar. I went online and researched the island, noting its vibrant history, and was immediately drawn to it and it became a must see on my bucket list.

When you find a person that is easy to travel with, they become your "go to" person when an adventure is on the horizon. For me, this has recently become my friend Annie. She is easy to get along with, spontaneous, and hilarious. She is so full of life and spirit, that when my father met her during a recent trip to Germany, he immediately nicknamed her "trouble." When I mentioned to Trouble that I was interested in visiting Cyprus, she jumped at the chance! While in Malaga, our dive instructor Elisha had mentioned that some of her favorite dives had been in Cyprus, one site at the wreck of the Zernobia in Larnaka (which unfortunately Annie and I weren't qualified to dive), and Amphitheater in Paphos. We decided that this would be the perfect trip to take in October over Columbus Day weekend, and we began to search for flights.

One major issue that had kept me from visiting Cyprus in the past was the travel to get there. I would either find no flights or really shitty flights were available during the short four day timeframe that encompassed the majority of my travels. Annie and I ran into a few roadblocks when researching flights, until one beautiful day in August when Annie had a breakthrough.

"I found a flight for us that is reasonably priced and gives us three full days in Cyprus!" Annie screamed into the phone. "The only issue is that we have REALLY bad flight times and a 12 hour layover on the way home in Belgrade, Serbia."

I pondered this for all of three seconds before realizing I had never been to Serbia before, and this could be a great opportunity to visit a new city.

"I am all in!"

And with that, we began to plan our trip.

Since I was about to leave for my three week "vacation" to Corsica, Annie took the reigns on planning our trip. She booked our hotel in Ayia Napa at a really affordable apartment rental called Margherita Apartments (It cost us less than $100 per person for three nights, and is in a fantastic location), and scheduled us for a dive on our second day in Paphos. For Serbia, she found a layover tour through trip advisor called Serbian Heritage Tours (which I will go into further detail in another post) that would pick us up at the airport, take us around Belgrade, and return us to the airport in time for our flight. The plan was set!

Annie and I live about an hour away from each other, so we planned on meeting at the airport. Our flight departed Frankfurt at 8pm, so we linked up about and hour and a half prior. With my first Starbucks pumpkin spice latte of the season in hand, we made our way through security and onto our plane with no issues, a huge feat for the two of us.

This trip had two difficult travel days. The first was getting there, which included a flight from Frankfurt at 8 pm, arriving in Serbia at 10pm. Then a two hour layover with an arrival into Larnaka at 0330. When we arrived, we were exhausted. All we wanted was to pick up our rental car and head to our hotel. Unfortunately there was a slight snafu in regards to our rental. Since we were traveling over the course of two days, Trouble made the mistake of scheduling our rental pickup for the day we left, not the day we arrived. Therefore we had no car waiting for us upon our arrival. It took us about an hour to find another company that had an affordable car for us to rent. In order to save money, and Annie's unwavering trust that as a helicopter pilot I would be able to navigate us off a map, we decided against purchasing a navigation system. This wouldn't have been an issue if Cyprus would grace the roads with street names, which they do not. This only proved difficult while attempting to navigate through cities and trying to find our hotel.

At 0430 we were on the road to Ayia Napa. While looking at a map of Cyprus, it doesn't look all that big and in reality, it isn't. You can drive from East to west in about two hours which is relatively quick. What we didn't expect was it taking an hour to get from Larnaka to Ayia Napa, and by 0530 we were exhausted. This is where having no navigation nor street signs came to be an issue. We couldn't find our hotel, and although there were a few places open, no one had a clue what we were taking about when asking directions to Margherita Apartments. It took us another hour to find the place. We checked in, dragged ourselves to bed, and said goodbye to the world.

Not wanting to waste a day sleeping, Annie forced us out of bed at 1000. This was to be our beach day, and we wanted as much time as we could get in the sun. We waddled down to the local bakery that was to be our source of nutrition for the next three days, and bought these lovely spinach and goat cheese pastries, baklava, and water. We packed up the car and headed down the road to the popular Nissi Beach.
Nissi Beach

After about two hours, we decided that we would begin the next part of our adventure. Annie had heard of a place called Cavo Greco near where we were staying that was known for beautiful cliffs that many adventurous travelers chose to dive from. Since we are both crazy, we decided that this would be the perfect way to spend our afternoon. 

We arrived at the cliffs and they were incredible! Crystal clear blue water, sun drenched rocky cliffs, and a perfect area to jump from. The height of the cliffs is approximately 15m, or 50 feet. I had never jumped from heights so high, and knowing full well my ridiculous fear of heights, my palms began to sweat uncontrollably. We watched one young man jump, land perfectly, and resurface. That was proof enough to Annie and I that it would be safe and we geared up for our jumps. Annie went first and left me to take a picture of her.
Annie's free fall

She landed and it was my turn. There were quite a few people watching us by now, and the last thing I needed was to look like a wimp so I took a few steps back, took a deep breath, and ran for the edge. It was the longest fall EVER! It was so long, that you fell, realized you were still falling, had time to feel your stomach begin to drop, think "Holy SHIT, where is the water??" before you actually hit. I surfaced to find myself giggling with delight and screaming "Again! Again!!"
Me during my second jump
 Found this spot on our hike back up the cliff
Laughing in the water after our first jump

The next morning was our dive day. We google searched the dive location the night prior and found that is was about a two hour drive to Paphos. We wanted to get SOME sightseeing in while on Cyprus, so we decided to leave a little early and make a few stops along the way. Our first stop was at the Archaeological site of Kourion.



One of my favorite stories about Cyprus is that of the Goddess of Love and Beauty, Aphrodite. She is said to have been born on one of the beaches near Paphos, rising from the foam on the sea. Her birth place is marked, so Annie and I drove to the beach of her birth, which was one of the most beautiful spots in Cyprus. 


When we finally arrived at Coral bay in Paphos, we linked up with our diver instructor Ray (man, I think that was his name??). We had chosen to do the Amphitheater dive, and were really excited. We made sure that Ray understood the difficulties that Annie has with her buoyancy, and told him to be patient and enjoy the show. She can be very entertaining to watch sometimes. Annie warned him of my habit of singing songs from "The Little Mermaid" every time I enter the water, which is a very true statement. Really, how can you NOT sing "Under the Sea" while scuba diving??

I had just purchased an underwater case for my GoPro, and decided that my new career would be taking underwater photos. I literally took about 107, but I will not bore you with those. I have chosen just a few to share. However I will say that this dive site, although extremely lacking on underwater life due to the fact that up until recently people were still using dynamite to fish, was very cool. Due to the erosion on the rocks and limestone, it actually looks like there are underwater amphitheaters. 


Underwater Selfie
Showing off our muscles


Annie Checking out the Amphitheater

After a very successful two dives, we bought some bread, hummus and baklava and headed to a nearby shipwreck to have a picnic and watch the sun set before heading back to the other side of the island. 

For our final day in Cyprus, we decided to make use of our car one last time and drive through the mountains. We had heard from our dive instructor that there was a beautiful monastery called Kykkos that shouldn't be missed. We packed all our bags, loaded the car with our tour book in hand, and began our adventure. Since we had time, we looked up places to see along the way and discovered a small village that was known for having a church and a mosque that had been located right next to each other, where Greek Orthodox and Muslims had once lived in harmony.

If you are unaware, Cyprus is dived into two sections- the Greek area which is the majority of the island to the south, and the Turkish area to the north. The boarder is guarded by UN troops, and it is difficult to go from one to the other. During our drive, we were just miles away from the Turkish side and could see into it all the way to the northern coast. Up near the city of Nicosia in the hills, there is a painting of the Turkish flag. Anywho, we thought it would be a nice little detour to see this village, so we stopped for some photos and a coffee.
Look to the left and you can see the mosque

Fall is my favorite time of year, especially when the air is crisp and the colors of the leaves are changing. When I think of Cyprus I think of the beach and the ruins, never mountains with snow or changing foliage. So I was pleasantly surprised as we climbed up to the monastery. 
A beautiful little village 

I am not sure what I expected while visiting Kykkos, but I was taken aback by the beauty of the monastery. It was situated high on a hill in a remote area. It was quiet, magical, and awe inspiring. The monks up there make their own wine, which I will disappointingly say was not all that great, and pray in the traditional Greek Orthodox fashion. It was well worth the trip, and  I would highly recommend it to anyone visiting Cyprus.


With our time in Cyprus coming to a close, Annie and I enjoyed one final dinner in Larnaka before heading to Serbia. I will tell you of our harrowing travels and tour of Belgrade next time. 

Monday, October 6, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part V: Dehydration

9 August 2014

Beginning of Day 2

You would think a person would learn their lesson in regards to water and hydration after running out the day prior, but I didn't. I packed the same 2 liter camelback and chose not to fill the extra 1 liter bottle because I thought it would be too heavy, and that I would ration my supply better. That didn't happen.

Like the previous day, the hike started off rather well. I have found that, although exhausting, I am able to CLIMB a mountain.  Aside from one section where I felt as if I was hanging off the side of a sheer cliff, trying to get from rock to rock, with a nice little 400 ft drop, the ascent was ok. The issue for me is the descent. We made great time on the way up, right on track with the guide book which had estimated the day to be about 6.5 hours (not including rest stops). However, the final three hours of the hike were all downhill, where the traveler had to traverse a steep hill made of loose dirt and scree (thousands upon thousands of loose rocks that slip underfoot and are the cause of many a rolled ankle). Our 6.5 hours quickly turned into 11 hours due to the fact that I moved at a glacial pace, trying not to kill myself.


A nice view

The sun was out in full force this particular day, and I acquired a rather nasty sunburn on my neck and shoulders that plagued me for the duration on the hike. By day five it was so bad, that it started to scab over. This unrelenting heat also affected my water consumption, and the 6.5 hours that I planned for was how I rationed my water. By hour nine, I was starting to feel the onset of dehydration.

It comes on you pretty quickly and almost unnoticeable to the affected. My legs started shaking and giving out on me (which I thought was just me being completely out of shape), then I began to feel dizzy. I kept pushing on when I noticed that I was no longer sweating anymore and I was beginning to feel like I was going to throw up.

Tania was getting worried, wanting me to stop and rest; but the sun was blazing and I wanted shade before I stopped to rest. By hour 10, I was singing songs from "The Little Mermaid" and waving to Ariel who was perched on a rock in the distance.

"Can you hear that?" I asked Tania, stopping by a rock to catch my breath. "It sounds like water- a stream of some sort...or perhaps it is the ocean and Ariel is guiding me to my salvation!"

"It is not water, just the rustle of the breeze in the trees." I could tell, even in my delirious state, that Tania was getting worried.

"Just sit here and relax" she told me while patting my head. "I will run ahead to the refuge, it shouldn't be too much farther, and bring you back some water."

I brushed her hand away frustrated. "I am fine! I swear I hear water!!"

I got back up and continued on. It took another 20 minutes, but we eventually stumbled upon a water source, a beautiful little stream hidden in the trees.

"See??" I looked at Tania triumphantly. "I told you Ariel would save us!"

We sat by the stream for about 45 minutes. I washed my face with the cool water, and we filter enough for me to drink about 1 liter. We had tablets of electrolytes that we placed in the water bottle, and I rested and drank. My visions of Ariel disappeared to my disappointment, and we continued on to the Refuge.

During our dinner of chicken and rice, Tania retold the story of my hallucinations while I drained my blisters. Another successful day of hiking...sort of.


Tania enjoying some down time

Thursday, October 2, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part IV: D-Day

8 August 2014

 
The beginning

Good fucking lord, I want to die! I would have knocked Tania over after the first 3 hours to end this miserable hike if she would have been anywhere near me, but she pretty much kicked my ass and was so far ahead that I couldn't see her at most times...Bitch.

I knew today would be difficult, a "trial by fire" as our guide books stated, with a 5,000ft ascent into oblivion. It began rather peacefully, with a constant ascent that was pretty steep and difficult, but not impossible. We made it to the first clearing in good time, and chose this point to enjoy our lunch. We ran into two Italian girls that we had met yesterday on the train to Calvi who were also sitting, enjoying the view.

About an hour into our hike

After a good 45 min break, Tania and I put our packs back on and continued to march. This is where things got dodgy. I mentioned in a previous post that this was NOT a typical trail, but rather, scrambling (which up until this point I didn't know meant that you would be needing to use your hands to climb- between mountain climbing and rock climbing). About three hours into our day, we reached our first scramble area.



First Scramble- Can you see Tania??
 
I have noted some lessons learned thus far:
 
1. Learn what a scramble is before you arrive at that portion of the trail so you don't pee in your pants in fear. I would suggest rocking climbing once or twice in advance with a bag that weighs as much as another person and see if you can do it. If not, don't go on the GR20.
 
2. If you bring walking poles, which I suggest to all that you do because they are amazing, make sure you buy the correct size. Not knowing anything about hiking poles, I just bought a pair and didn't look at them until I made it to the trail. Mine maxed out at 110cm, and I apparently need 120cm. I was hunched over in an attempt to use them during every decent. Pain in the ass.
 
3. BRING ENOUGH WATER!!! Unlike Tania who can be compared to a camel in that she can survive on one cup of water per week, I went through my camelback about halfway through the trip (I drank it as quickly as an alcoholic downs a beer after not having a drink in three days) and had to suffer the rest of the way using my saliva as hydration. That doesn't work, in case you were wondering.
 
4. Fuck food, it is too heavy. Just carry snacks and eat at the refuges
 
5. Why in G-ds name did I bring a 5lb solar panel???
 
6. I would highly suggest NOT making the GR20 the hike that pops your trekking cherry.
 
After seven hours of misery, we arrived at our first refuge where I dramatically dropped to the ground and kissed the soil that was to be my bed for the evening. We set up camp, and spent the rest of the evening eating chocolate and talking to some other travelers about the day. I popped my first blister of the hike, and stared out at the view. Day 1 complete
 
 
Our yogurt cups that we carried all 10 days


Tuesday, September 30, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part III- Fat Girl Pants

I think it is pretty amazing that I am on my third post about this trip, yet I haven't even begun to write about the hike. If you are hoping that this will be the post where the adventure starts, I am sorry to say that you have to wait. This post is about my fat girl pants.

Tania and I woke up on D-Day -1 (that is army speak...sorry) refreshed and excited. We were traveling from Ajaccio to Calvi where we planned on enjoying the beach and a nice meal before settling in for an early night. It was a five hour train ride total with one change in Ponte Leccia, with the first three on a spacious train where we had our own seats, a small table, and outlets to plug in our electronics. Laid out in front of us was a typical French breakfast that we had purchased from a local Boulangerie; pain au chocolate, croissants, and my personal favorite, pain au raisin. We enjoyed our leisurely breakfast as the train roared through the countryside, giving us a full view of the mountains that would be our home for the following 10 days.

Waiting for the train in Ajaccio

At Ponte Leccia, we disembarked and crossed right over to the train that would take us to Calvi; a completely different story as far as comfort. The train was packed! We spent the next two hours crunched up alongside other travelers in the aisle of a train car. We were greeted in Calvi with clear blue skies and crystal clear blue water resting against the clay background of the rocky countryside.


Calvi

We spent a beautiful afternoon on the beach, relaxing our bodies before the onslaught of pain was to begin. We decided that we would treat ourselves to a carb-filled dinner, and went back to the hotel to change. This is when the night turned to crap.

While home in California in March to visit my family, I had gone to REI to purchase some necessities for my trip to Corsica. I knew that I didn't want to carry a lot of clothing, so I figured buying a pair of those hideous pants that unzips above the knee to make shorts would be the perfect addition to my hiking wardrobe. I found a great pair on sale for $25 that fit me perfectly!! I had tried them out during my hike in the Alps and had been very pleased with them.

During the weeks following my trip to Oberammergau, I ate a lot of cake. Actually, I can't say that I ate any more than usual, but as I tried on my REI pants to wear to dinner that evening in Calvi, the reality of my weight gain was on full display because I could barely button my pants and when I did, there was a a perfect muffin top that rolled over my pants. Horrified, I started cursing REI and their crap product for shrinking after only one wash.

"How could this happen?" I cried, while stuffing a piece of ritter hazelnut chocolate into my mouth. "These are brand new pants! How could they shrink like this?!"

I stared at my reflection in the mirror, horrified that I looked like a soccer mom in high waist jeans and a FUPA (fat upper pussy area- this is how we describe that belly roll that is cut in half by the waistline of mom jeans).

It was five o'clock in the evening, the night before we were to leave for the GR20, and my wardrobe had been cut in half. There were a few stores in town where I hoped that I would be able to find some replacement pants.

There was nothing. We were told that there was an intersport on the other side of town, so we started huffing it. Our evening of relaxation was now spent running down the street, trying to find the intersport before it closed. We had no idea how far it was, and after about two miles, we realized that the only way we were going to get there was if Tania flashed her boobs to the passing cars in hopes that one would stop. Ok, she really didn't show her boobs, but it makes the story a little more exciting.

We finally found a ride and made it just in time. I found a new pair of pants for the trip and the evening was saved!! It wasn't until four days later, after days of walking hour after hour, that my REI pants fit again, that I realized that they didn't shrink and I had just needed a pair of fat girl pants to get me through until I dropped some weight.

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part II: I Would Rather Starve

Getting to Corsica can be an adventure in itself. I was traveling from Frankfurt, Germany to Ajaccio, Corsica which I thought would be an easy trip since Frankfurt is one of the main hubs in Europe. However, any time you have to fly through Paris Charles de Gaulle airport, don't. I have no idea who created the layout for this mess of an airport, but every time I have to travel through here, I overdose on macarons since it is the only thing that keeps me sane.

Last year I had decided to visit a friend that I had met during my deployment to Afghanistan. He was a pilot in the French Army, and stationed in a remote little town in the South West of France called Pau. I will be the first to say that this is truly one of the most beautiful areas I have seen in my life. The town of Pau itself is charming, but it is the countryside around it that is spectacular. Flying into the Pau airport, you are gifted with a breathtaking view of the Pyrenees. Perfectly situated just outside the Basque Country, Pau is an hour drive to the mountains in one direction, and an hour's drive to the beaches of Biarritz in the other. If it wasn't for the pain of traveling there, I would go more often.

Charles de Gaulle is set up where no matter which terminal you fly into, you will have to take a bus for a connection. In the case of Pau, landing in 2F and needing to go to 2G sounds a lot easier than it is. 2G is, at least this is what it felt like at the time, on the completely other side of Paris (ok, it is really only about a 20 min bus ride, but I do not need to continue to explain my love of exaggeration). SO when booking my flight to Ajaccio, I didn't pay any attention to my itinerary until I was standing confused in Paris. Unbeknownst to me there are two airports in Paris, Charles de Gaulle and Paris Orly which is literally an hour away by bus if there is no traffic. So, with my thousand pound backpack and a box full of Ladurée macarons, I hopped on the bus to Orly.

Although my flight to Paris was just over an hour, and the flight from Paris to Ajaccio was only 30 minutes longer, it took me 12 hours to link up with Tania in Corsica. I arrived at the Hotel Napoleon (Ajaccio is the birthplace of Napoleon, hence the name of our hotel) at 2030 that evening to find Tania passed out on the bed, drool dripping down the side of her face. She had flown all the way from Texas, so I could forgive the lack of welcome party. She woke up guns blazing, thinking I was an intruder, and I almost pissed my pants. If I haven't mentioned this before, Tania scares me. As my mother so eloquently put it when I told her I would be doing this hike with Tania, "Don't try and keep up and don't let her boss you around! We all know Tania is both physically and mentally stronger than you are."

Cowering in the corner, arms raised to protect my face to the inevitable ass kicking that is fit for an intruder, Tania realized that it was just me and relaxed her death stance. "Oh my G-d!!!" she screamed as I jumped on the bed, giving her my biggest bear hug. We spent the next hour giggling, catching up and talking about the trip. She showed me her bag, and we went over our supplies for the next 10 days.

Tania and I had talked a lot about food rations and gear, and we had decided that she would carry the tent and cooking supplies, and I would carry the food. She walked over to the closet and pulled out a box full of food. She had organized it in a way that there were three bags: breakfast, snacks and dinner. I had already contemplated pushing Tania off the side of the mountain due to my heavy bag, but as I lifted the food that I was going to be carrying, the risk to her life increased significantly. The weight of my bag has increased about 8-10 pounds (no joke- I weighed it later at the train station). This new addition has brought my bag to a whopping 40 pounds!

I put the bag on my back and pranced around the room before looking at Tania with pure hatred. "I would rather starve."

She thinks I am joking and laughs at me. All I can think is how this is going to suck...

Our bags looking innocent...looks can be deceiving
 

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

GR20, Corsica- Part I

It has been over a month since I returned from my trip to Corsica, yet I have yet to post anything about my experience. That is because I have needed extensive therapy to handle the trauma that was my trip, and today is the first day that I have felt well enough to share my story. Ok, I am being overly dramatic as usual, but it really was a harrowing experience. I decided to keep a journal, so these next few articles will come from that. This means you will be reading my raw emotions and I ask kindly that you do not make fun of me, especially where there is poop involved.

For those of you who do not know, the GR20 is a "trail", about 112 miles long, that runs from Northern Corsica to the South. It is mountainous terrain with over 90% of the "trail" not being a trail, but rocks, granite slabs, and cliffs leading to sure death if you make a mistake. There are sections with chains to keep you from plummeting hundreds of feet into more rocks below.

This is an example taken from Day 4

To keep me from experiencing carpel tunnel, and to keep these posts at a rather reasonable length, I have decided to break down each post to a day. Therefore, this first post will be of my travel to Corsica.

6 August 2014

Standing in line waiting to check in my backpack, I have come to the conclusion that I am completely unprepared for this trip. After 45 minutes of standing in the same place, my back is killing me and all I want to do is throw my bag off my shoulders and run out of the airport screaming "I QUIT!! I QUIT!" A normal human being preparing for a trip of this caliber would have WORN the pack at least once before the day of departure. A normal person would have, perhaps, gone on a hike with it to test the fit, the load, and the stability. I am not normal in any way, shape, or form. Procrastination at its finest came into play and the first time I strapped that bag on was as I was leaving my house. Standing in line I am beginning to wonder how I can get out of this fiasco with my pride intact.

My good friend Martha gave me a rather brilliant idea the other night over a plate of hot curry at the local Indian restaurant. She had gone on a hiking trip the previous summer through Norway with a small group from our CrossFit gym. By day four Martha, who has more muscle per square inch than anyone I know (which isn't saying much since she is only four feet tall and 50 pounds soaking wet) was ready to throw in the towel. Even though she was in fantastic shape, her little midget legs couldn't keep up with the rest of the group and it is at this point that she hatched her evil plan. Although she be but little, she is fierce...and a little sadistic.

Her plan was to knock over her best friend Kat so she would sprain/ break a leg and the hike would therefore come to an end. Hearing these words come out of her mouth made me choke on my mango lamb curry.

"You're nuts! I love you, but you're nuts!"

She looked at me, smiled her wicked little smile and said "just wait. You will be thinking the same thing soon."

Standing in line at the airport, I began to see her point...

Another topic of conversation during this memorable dinner was a few other points I had missed while planning this epic adventure. Martha, not only being completely direct when it came to her opinion, also found great joy in other people's misery. As loyal of a friend that she is, she takes great joy in the idiocy of her friends.

Martha: Did you pack a map?
Me: No, why? Do you think I need one?
Martha: Not if you have a guide
Me: I do not have a guide. I am my guide
Martha: Is the trail marked?
Me: Yes...I think
Martha: Do you have a compass?
Me: Nope! But I have a really cute blue and pink shark watch which is waterproof up to 100 meters!
Martha: And that will help you how?
Me: It won't break while drowning in my tears of misery
Martha: Have you tried on your bag yet?
Me: Yes...at the store when I bought it
Martha: Have you packed it yet? How much does it weigh?
Me: I will pack it tomorrow
Martha: You are leaving tomorrow
Me: Yes
Martha: Bless your heart (that is West Virginia speak for you're an idiot)

Yup...I am totally unprepared for this trip.

Monday, August 4, 2014

My Motorcycle Adventure...Wiesbaden to Strasbourg


For those of you who are seasoned riders, you may want to stop reading now for I am about to tell a story  about my “long distance” ride from Wiesbaden, Germany to Strasbourg, France, which you may all find a bit “over-dramatic.”

I have been on a motorcycle many times before, although always as a passenger since I am too afraid to ride one myself. I tried to drive a scooter once while living in Italy, but that ended in the unfortunate death of many bicycles. It was a warm spring evening and one of my friends was going to teach my how to drive. I will admit that I feel terrible for anyone who has to teach me driving, whether it be learning how to drive a manual car (sorry dad), a helicopter (sorry to all my instructors who had to listen to me sing Britney Spears’ “Oops, I did it again” because it was the only way I could focus after botching a maneuver), and to whomever attempts to teach me how to ride a motorcycle.

On this particular evening, I was learning on a backstreet in Florence.

“Turn the throttle towards you with the right hand,” my Italian friend told me. “Once it starts to move forward, lift your feet from the ground and put them on the scooter.”

Easier said than done. To my astonishment, as I gave this little scooter some gas and it began to move forward, I freaked out and tried to stop the forward movement by planting my feet on the ground and trying to pull the bike back to me. By doing this and not releasing the throttle, the bike went faster and I ended up flat on my face after the bike went out from under me. I looked up to the sound of screaming and the little motor bike running into about seven parked bicycles on the side of the street. My friend swore at me in Italian, which I unfortunately understood at the time, flipped me the bird, and rode off without me. I lay there on the concrete streets of Florence in utter shame, and I have not attempted to drive any type of motorbike since.

As far as being a passenger, I have gotten pretty good. The mother of an ex boyfriend of mine had a Harley, and I used to ride around with her on “flood runs.” These were days when large groups of Harley riders would come together and pretty much go on a motorized bar crawl. I don’t really know how legal this is, but we had a grand old time! I had a shirt that read “Bitch” and she wore one that read “If you can see this, the bitch fell off.”

So when Chris mentioned taking his bike to Strasbourg, I was really excited. The longest I had been on a bike for any period of time was maybe 20-30 min, the length of time between bars in rural Wisconsin. This drive was going to be a whopping 2.5 hours!

Driving through Wiesbaden was cake and I felt comfortable enough. Then we hit the autobahn. I will preface by saying that in a car, I LOVE the autobahn. Aside from a few areas, the speed limit is an advised (and yes, I said advised) 130kph. For my American friends, that is roughly 80mph. However the truth is that you can drive up to your comfort level, or your cars governor, whichever comes first. For me, my governor sets in at about 130MPH, so about 240-250kph. The autobahn on a motorcycle is an entirely different story.

I don’t think I have ever experienced the pucker effect as seriously as I did those first few minutes when we hit 85mph. All I kept thinking was “Oh my goodness!! I am a klutz! What if I fall off?? What if I just roll over to the side and fall off? Do I let go or take him down with me?”  This train of thinking lasted about an hour.

I started to relax, and by relax I mean I started to get sleepy. I have noticed that a continued vibration, like that on a motorcycle, is a gentle little lullaby that rocks me to sleep.  When I was in flight school, I learned this lesson the hard way.

Flight school was like college but with worse hours. You can’t just plan your class schedule around the idea of sleeping in, but instead end up with either PT or classes first thing in the morning. During primary, the introductory phase in flight school, we had classes that began around 5am. Not being a morning person, this had a very negative effect on my ability to stay awake.

During this phase we were learning how to fly the TH-67, which is like a jet ranger.  We were split up into teams of three, two flight students known as stick buddies, and an instructor. In the aircraft, one student would be flying and the other would be in the back and only responsible for looking out for any flight obstacles, and reading off before and after landing checks.

The problem with the back seat was the vibration of the aircraft. I found that it knocked me out! Being so sleepy all the time, it was like a cradle rocking me to sleep after a long day. It got to the point where I had trained myself to be able to sleep, but wake up when asked for the before landing checks. I would read them off, and then pass right back out until asked for the after landing checks. This went on for a while until one day when I was extremely tired.

I have no idea how it happened, all I know was that I fell asleep and the next thing I knew my instructor was shaking me awake. I looked around and noticed that we had landed, were parked, the aircraft was tied down, and my stick buddy and instructor had all their gear packed and ready to leave. It was humiliating.
Back on the motorcycle, it was the fear of death that kept me awake when my eyes started to droop. Now wide awake and little more comfortable, I started to really enjoy the ride. What surprised me the most were the smells.

When riding in a car you don’t have the same experience as when you are on a bike. The wind, the feeling of flying, and how you can literally smell everything! I felt like I was completely engulfed in my surroundings. I could smell the bitterness of the vineyards while driving through the Rheingau, the strong and sour smell of the onions as we drove though onion patches, and the sweet smell of flowers that were blooming.

I was pretty proud at how well I was doing until we hit about 1 hour 45 min. At this point my butt started to hurt. It started off slow, with a subtle tingle, before it went into full blown uncomfortable.  This could be partly because of my utter lack of a bum, inheriting my father’s flat ass with no cushion to support a long ride. Whatever the cause, my last 45 minutes were wrapped around how I couldn’t wait to get off the bike. When I saw the exit sign for Strasbourg, I felt like dancing for joy.

I have heard many a wonderful thing about Strasbourg and have wanted to visit for years. Chris and I arrived and checked into our hotel before heading out on the town.  One of my favorite ways to discover a city is by just walking around and getting lost. This is exactly what we did, however we ended up getting pretty drunk in the process.
 Strasbourg
The beautiful Cathedral in Strasbourg

I will give us credit that we at least made it to the church before our first drop of alcohol, but from there it went downhill. Neither of us had eaten and we were saving up our appetite for dinner that evening, so the beer and wine hit us both pretty hard. We stumbled from one bar to the next, returning twice to one particular Belgian beer bar that was the icing on the intoxicated cake.
At about 2130, we stumbled into the cheese restaurant (the name totally eludes me) where we had a reservation. I am not really sure what we expected from this dinner, but we definitely fell into the idiotic American category. We had heard that the fondue was great there, so we ordered a pot. Our waitress, who obviously saw us in a vulnerable state, mentioned that we would perhaps like to sample two different pots of cheese.
“Of course we would” was my response in my broken attempt at speaking French, raising my glass of wine to the waitress!


How real people drink wine
 
I think we both thought that these would be “sample” pots of fondue. We were sadly mistaken. The chef brought out two HUGE pots of boiling cheese and a basket of bread. It sounds amazing, and the first few bites were, but after being “manchestered” to eat both pots after I made the claim that I could eat it all on my own, I started to go into a cheese coma. What we didn’t realize when we ordered, was that one pot of cheese was 27 euros and ALL YOU CAN EAT! 70 euros later and feeling like absolute ass, we stumbled back to our hotel and passed out. Very romantic.
We woke up the next morning with a cheese hangover and made the decision to head out of Strasbourg early to beat the rain. We packed up our stuff and headed back on the road.
One of the coolest things about riding around Europe is that there are always great places to stop and sightsee along the way. Both Chris and I love WWII history and just outside of Strasbourg is part of the Maginot Line, a line of concrete fortifications constructed near the border of Germany by France as a response to their experience witht he Germance during WWI. Although rendered pretty useless during the war since the Germans invaded through Belgium, it was still a very impressive site with many WWII artifacts.
 

 

After spending 40 minutes walking around, we jumped back on the bike in a race against the rain which would have had a very negative effect of my recent keratin treatment. The more I write, the more I realize how much of a pansy I can be. Damn.
The ride home was a lot better for me. I knew what to expect and I was a little more relaxed. I put on a great music mix of Chris Pureka and Lana del Ray on my iPod, and listened to “Ride” while singing at the top of my lungs (to Chris’ utter dismay).
I now feel like a very seasoned rider and ready to conquer the world!! Ok, maybe I will start with a four hour ride first…


Monday, July 14, 2014

Corsica II- Oberammergau

AS the time moves closer to my departure to Corsica, I have found that I am a rookie at a total loss when it comes to this trip. You can google and search all day for items you think you may need, but it is the basics that are difficult. For example, you will find tips on hiking boots, foot care, and first aid but nothing on the types of socks people recommend. Should I go for compression? Wool? Should they be thick or thin? For someone who is as prone to blisters as I am, this is a huge cause for concern.

Another burning question is food. Tania and I have come up with what we THINK we should bring and have made purchases to include dehydrated meals, beef jerky, oatmeal, granola bars, and even Starbucks via instant coffee packs (although this last purchase it only for me since Tania has some strange and rare deficiency in her taste buds that keeps her from enjoying the splendid taste of coffee...I feel sorry for her), yet we still don't really know what food will be available at the refuges.

But the greatest obstacle I have come across while planning this trip is my complete and utter inexperience when it comes to hiking. I have LITERALLY hiked one day in my life! This was a year and a half ago during my R&R from Afghanistan. My cousin Mike and I decided that we would spend an afternoon climbing Mt. Tamalpais in Marin County. I had grown up staring at this mountain from afar with no desire to ever set foot on it. I was not an "outdoorsy" kid. I did play baseball and basketball and loved playing war with my Barbie's and GI Joe (they always had an affair once the war was over), but mountains and hiking never really caught my interest. It is funny to look back now, since I have developed a love affair with mountains ever since I picked up snowboarding a few years ago, but this hiking thing is still pretty new. I strapped on my new hiking boots and spent five hours exploring Mt. Tam. It was beautiful! When you reach the top you can see San Francisco to the south, Oakland and Berkley to the east, and on a clear day you can even see Point Reyes to the north. It was that moment, while standing on the top of the world that I decided to add Corsica to my bucket list.

View from Mt. Tam
 
 
Now one and a half years later and I have not made any progress with my hiking. You can see where I might be a little worried right now, just three weeks before I am supposed to leave. I have thought long and hard about the decision to just say "Screw it! Who needs any training?" The other part of me has thought of the altitude and how my body is going to react and perhaps I should do a test run through the Alps. I would like to tell you that I went with option 1, since it would have been a lot more entertaining to write about when things go catastrophically wrong in Corsica, but I have opted for option 2.
 
This past weekend I decided to drive down to Oberammergau where Chris is enrolled in a class at the NATO school (the lucky bastard) and spend a day hiking. The area is know for its hiking trails so all we had to do is pick an area and go for it. Since my first day in Corsica is apparently a 5,000ft ascent, we chose a trail that was close to our hotel with an ascent of 3,000ft. I figured this would give me a good taste of what to expect. We chose to hike the "experienced" trail because I like a challenge, and we were NOT disappointed.
 
The suck started immediately. I am not exaggerating when I say that there was no part of the trail that was flat. This monster was a constant steep climb on a very narrow path for 2.5 hours. I made it about 25ft before I started asking how much farther until we reached the top. By 50ft I was dragging ass and decided that I needed a pick me.
 
When I first started dating Chris I noticed that everything I did or said brought a look of surprise to his face. As we got to know each other better, my behavior started to have less of a startling effect on him which saddened me. However my favorite pastime, putting my life into song, always bothered the crap out of him which made me take great joy in it. So this day, to up my energy, I decided that singing the entire score from "The Sound of Music" was an excellent idea. I spent the next 30 minutes serenading the the mountain with the likes of "This hills are alive with the sound of Music" and "Climb every Mountain." I even snuck in "Edelweiss" and the "Lonely Goatherd" before Chris was begging me to be quiet.
 
The greatest think I learned during the course of this hike was that after about 20 minutes the pain will stop and you will actually start enjoying yourself. This was a relief, since in less than a month I will be hiking for 16 days!!! The trail we were on wrapped around the mountain and there is a point, at about 2,500ft, where there is a sort of ledge you can climb out to that gives you the most incredible view! I will not bore you on how it took me 10 minutes to build up the courage to crawl out on my hands and knees because of my fear of heights, but I made it our to the edge eventually. And I am not ashamed to say that I belted out "The Edge of Glory" by Lady Gaga at the top of my lungs. I can't believe that Chris still chooses to hang out with me.


Chris on the edge



 
 
15 minutes later we made it to the top! What I love the most about Germany, especially in Bavaria, is that you can get a beer anywhere. There was a restaurant at the top (and a gondola that we took back down) where we celebrated our climbing feat with a delicious brew.


 
 

Bring on Corsica!!
 


Friday, July 11, 2014

Traveling with Family- Nice, France


It is an entirely different experience traveling with your parents. It takes about 2 hours longer to get out of the house, 3 hours longer to walk from point A to B, and you end up having to endure comments about your “drinking problem” after your first glass of wine.   To make this trip a little more interesting- my father, mother and I were all suffering from some sort of injury.
My father is in no way to be laughed at for being a total gimp. He has terrible knees, worse feet, and recently had a stroke making every ailment a little more painful and noticeable. This has caused him to slow down a lot, yet he will never admit it. It has also made him extremely grumpy. If you tell him to sit in a handicap seat, he may flip you the bird while screaming he is not handicapped, then sit in the very seat you pointed out. Perhaps senility is also one of his issues.
My mother and I are a totally different story.  Last year, while home on my R&R from Afghanistan, my mother fell down the stairs and broke both her legs. It was my second day home and we were getting ready to go to the wedding of a very dear family friend. I was upstairs and needed scissors for something, and asked if she could bring them to me. She had been on her way up the stairs when I yelled, so she turned around to head back to the kitchen to retrieve them for me.  I am not really sure how she managed this, but in the process of changing directions she fell and broke both her legs. I feel responsible for this since I am the one who asked for the scissors, but she has made me even more the evil child by telling everyone that I had pushed her down the stairs. I think the worst part is that people actually believed her! She thinks it is hilarious, I do not. I also think she likes to milk the attention because she went classy when it came to her casts. She chose to have one leg neon orange, and the other neon pink.

Mom looking Classy in Orange and Pink
 
 

My injury is just another cause of embarrassment for me because it proves I am completely accident prone. I tore my ACL and fractured my tibia playing ultimate Frisbee (the embarrassing part is that there was no one around me- I just fell over on my own). I injured my shoulder last winter snowboarding. Again nothing happened except that I just fell. But for this particular trip, I was recovering from a back injury. This again was just me being a complete moron and tweaking my back while weight training. The only plus of this injury were the muscle relaxers that I was given which made me giggly.
When you combine the three of us together, we looked like a team from the Special Olympics: Family Edition.
This trip had been a surprise birthday/ mother’s day gift.  I grew up in a home that was decorated with the theme of the French Countryside, with a few pieces of Paris thrown in. I get my love of France from my mother. For as long as I can remember, my mother has expressed her dream of visiting Nice, Cannes, St. Tropez, and Monte Carlo. Although we have made numerous trips to Europe, to include yearly visits of my parents to Germany around the holidays, we have never made it to the South of France.
When I was 17, I travelled with my high school basketball team to New Zealand and Fiji for a summer. It was on the flight home, that I met my German connection Christoph. I used to have a problem sleeping on planes, and had spent the entire red eye flight to New Zealand staring at the back of the seat in front of me in the dark, not wanting to wake up those around me by turning on the light to read. My walkman (yes, I said walkman) had run our of batteries, so I was literaly sitting in silence. I had been worried about the flight back and purchased 4 packs of batteries, which I never ended up using because of Christoph.
 
The flight was from Fiji to L.A with a stop in Hawaii. On the flight, along with my basketball team, was a boys soccer team from Germany who had spent the summer playing soccer in Australia and were now on their way to Hawaii for a week. As a child, I had always wanted to learn German so I was over the moon to meet some actual Germans! Christoph, 15 years old at the time, humored me for the entire flight teaching me words and phrases. As we pulled onto the tarmac in Honolulu, he and I exchanged addresses and promised to keep in touch. We wrote eachother my entire Senior year in high school, and when my parents told me that they were taking me to Europe as a graduation present, I wrote Christoph to let him know.
 
He lives in a small town in the middle of Germany, and our trip was scheduled where we spent our entire time in the east of Germany visiting the family of Sylva, an au pair who helped raise the children of my fathers best friend. They lived in Erfurt, which was several hours away from Christoph and his family. I phoned him and told him that we would be unable to meet, but gave him my flight information out of Frankfurt for the following day.
 
As my parents and I stepped off the train at the Frankfurt Airport, I saw a kid staring at me. We began to walk up to the departure area to check in and drop off our bags, when I noticed the kid was following me. I told my parents that it was creeping me out, and that we needed to move faster. At that moment, I felt someone touch my arm and I spun around to see the boy and his father. He stared at me for a few uncomfortable seconds, then said my name. I couldn’t believe it was Christoph! His father and he had driven two hours to the airport in the hopes of running into eachother.
 
I believe in fate. Christoph finding me at the airport set me on the path of where I am now. This meeting sealed our friendship and years later, when I decided to move to Germany to study, his family took me in. We became like brother and sisiter, his parents became like my parents and mine like his. We built such a bond, that when my father had a stroke and the doctor asked him how many children he had, he said two. Confused, the doctor asked for their names. “I have a daughter named Morgan, and a son named Christoph.”
 
This summer, my brother Christoph married a wonderful and beautiful woman in her hometown of Amsterdam. My mother and father flew out for ther wedding, and planned on staying for a month, which would include the 4th of July weekend.


My brother and his bride
 

My mothers birthday falls on or around mothers day every year and I decided that I would give her the one thing she had always wanted, a trip to Nice. I bought four tickets; one for myself, my mother, my father, and my mothers best friend from high school, Johnny.  My friends Sylva, Sydney and Emma would meet us there.
One word of advice that I can give after our first night in Nice is not travel in France during the World Cup, especially if you are traveling with someone from the country they are playing and they lose!  We were traveling with our friend Sylva who decided not to hide her German pride and cheered wildly when the German team schooled the French (although not as badly as they schooled Brazil a few days later- ouch). It is also a good idea to not let said person, Sylva, call for a taxi after such a devastating defeat. I think the operator could tell by her thick accent where she was from, and refused to send a taxi our way. My poor father couldn’t walk another step, the busses and trains had stopped running, and we were at least a few miles from our apartment.  Sylva called first and was promised a taxi in 10 minutes. 30 minutes later I called back and was told they would send one whenever they decided to send one. After waiting another 20 minutes, Johnny and I decided we would start walking in the direction of the train station in hopes that there would be a taxi there. We started asking people where the taxis were and the most common remark was “France lost. Most of the drivers won’t feel like driving tonight.” Damn
Taxi drivers always crack me up (when they are not pissing me off). This is not my first nutty taxi experience.  I remember one time in Paris when my friends and I went out dancing. When I say dancing, what I really mean is drinking…a lot of drinking and a little bit of dancing. And again when I say dancing, I mean trying to look sexy on the dance floor without falling on my butt which usually means that I end up falling on my face instead. We exited the club when the sun was coming up and gave the taxi driver our address. We drove around FOREVER! At the time, all I could think of was how I had no idea we had ventured so far out from our hotel! The bill came out to be $100. The next morning (and by morning I mean 3 o’clock in the afternoon) we emerged from our hotel for breakfast. We took a left and about one block down the street was the club we had been at the night before. I have never felt like a bigger idiot in my life, and if you know me at all, that is saying a lot.
Paris trip aside, I would say Korea was the worst in regards to shit taxi experiences. When I first arrived, we heard stories about Soldiers beating up taxi drivers. I was so appalled! I couldn’t believe that anything could be so bad that you would want to punch a taxi driver. That is, until I got to Seoul.  I consider myself to be a relatively patient person, although I think my parents will disagree wholeheartedly on this. I remember the first encounter was near the train station when I asked to be taken to Itaewon, the area around the Army base.  He looked at me, said “Get out! I no drive Americans” and pushed my shoulder towards the door.
Another time, at about 10 minutes before curfew (yes- we had curfew in Korea and you do NOT want to get caught out after!) I hopped in a taxi and asked him to drive me towards Yongson. Knowing full well that we have curfew, because most taxi drivers in the area are swarmed around 0045-0055 with Soldiers trying to get back to post, he starts driving in the opposite direction. When I told him he was going the wrong way, he started laughing. I ended up having to check into a hotel that night because I didn’t make it back to post on time.
But the kicker was after a Linkin Park concert. Most of my other taxi situations were experienced while highly intoxicated. This particular event I was sober since I was headed to the field for a training exercise the following morning. My friends and I had met the stage crew for LP the previous weekend while in a bar in Tokyo and had received free tickets and partied with the crew afterwards. I was so excited to be seeing another concert that I really didn’t care that I couldn’t party it up with everyone else, and got in a taxi immediately after the show.  There were two girls waiting in line for a cab as well, and said they were going in the same direction. I though “What harm could this do” and said they could join. I asked the driver how much the ride would cost, and he said it would be around 30,000 won (about $30). I jumped in and we drove towards my hotel. It took 5 minutes. I looked at the driver and said that there was no way I was giving him 30,000 won for a 5 minute drive and handed him 10,000. When I tried to get out, he locked the doors and refused to open them until I gave him the other 20,000. When I looked back at the girls in the back seat, they started laughing and yelling “You stupid American! You pay!”
I need to make sure that you all understand that this was not normal in Korea (aside from the asshole taxis). I found that Koreans are some of the nicest people I have ever met (although they have no idea what personal space is while standing in line). I still keep in contact with some of the Soldiers I worked with, and had great experiences working with the Korean Army. I volunteered at an orphanage, and found that Korean kids get even more hyper on tootsie pops and Reese’s peanut butter cups than American kids do which I found to be rather amusing. Side note- don’t bring candy to the orphanages! The staff will not find hyper children as amusing as you might. So on this particular evening with two mean girls in the back of a cab, and the meanest taxi driver I have ever met, I lost my shit. I am not proud at the fact that I screamed at the top of my lungs, roaring like a tiger, and banging on the window. I think I scared him because he eventually unlocked the door.
Back in France Johnny and I eventually found a cab, but he refused to take the five of us. I asked him to just take my mother and father, and then come back for the rest. My mother told him she would show her cleavage if he would take all five of us. He said he would oblige as long as she didn’t show her cleavage and we all squished into the back of the car.
I may have embellished the previous paragraph a little, but I think it is a funnier story this way.


 My family before the Taxi frustration
The beaches of Nice
 

If you ever plan on traveling to Nice, I would suggest spending a day in the town of Antibes. It is breathtaking! From the main train station, Nice-Ville, it is about a 20 minute train ride along the coast. There is a beautiful port where we had our first glimpse at the rows and rows of yachts that litter the cote d’ azure. There is a beautiful little enclave with a small beach just outside the city walls where we chose to have a picnic lunch. We hadn’t planned on spending time at the beach that day, so none of us had packed our bathing suits. What I love the most about my family is that we just don’t give a crap! My dad threw his shirt off the second the beach was in site and my uncle Johnny stripped down to his tighty-whities. “We are in France!” he screamed.  “All men wear bathing suits like this!”  Actually, what we would find out the following day in St Tropez is that many men wear far less. My mom whipped out her DDD’s and we spent the afternoon drinking wine, eating ice cream, and shopping.
Around 4pm we hoped back on the train and headed into Monte Carlo. This was one of those experiences that I think about before going to bed. When I was younger, I used to day dream about meeting Prince William and him falling so in love with me that I would be made a princess. Then that perfect specimen of a human, Kate Middleton, came along and my dreams went up in smoke.  With new dreams of Grace Kelley, I arrived in Monaco in the hopes that some rich Sheik would hand me a million dollar chip and my mother and I could by the adorable apartment we were staying in while in Nice.


Dad passed out at our apartment
I am sad to say that I did not walk away with any kind of winnings, but I did get some fantastic photos!



 
 

I have no idea why certain things happen to me, but I know that I have the strangest traveling luck. On our third day in France, my friend Emma and I decided to start our day off with a jog. I had been eating nothing but Pain au raisin (raisin croissants), pain au chocolate, and 2-3 ice cream cones per day for the last 3 days so I had already gained 10 pounds. We were near the end of our jog, about 10 minutes away from our apartment, when a boy named Iman decided to join us. We were running along, minding our own business when out of nowhere this boy with the most amazing afro started running alongside us. He was drunk and hadn’t been to sleep yet, so I thought he would run for a few moments and then leave.  He didn’t leave. Instead, he told us how he never runs, is completely hammered, that he needs a coffee and would we like to join him for one.
 “I can’t believe I am running! I never run! But I am from Africa so it must be in my blood.” He was dressed in a pair of loafers, jeans, and a button down shirt carrying a man purse while running faster than us!  What I found to be most hilarious, was that he was high fiving everyone as he passed, and kept cheering Emma and I on to run faster! His hair was massive and curlier than mine, if you can believe it possible.
As we turned a corner he lifted up an arm and smelled his armpit. “Oh dear!” he said while picking up the pace. “I smell like a man! I love me!”
We ran up to the bakery that we frequent and sat down to have the coffee.  He was 22 years old, from Tunisia, and had more energy at 0800 in the morning after a night partying than I do after 13 hours of sleep. I thought he was a very nice young man until he said something that made me feel like an old cat lady. When I told him how old I was, he replied with “Really? I hope I am just like you when I am 34!” I wanted to punch him in the face, which I think he noticed. “No, no madam! That is a compliment! You look so young for your age!” Emma, being only 25 found this to be hilarious! This was one of those moments that I never thought would happen to me. Don’t get me wrong, I have said the same thing to quite a few people in my life and always meant it as a compliment! Like “Wow! You look great for your age!” Now, having the tables reversed by a 22 year old who was young enough to be my kid if we lived in the Middle Ages, caught my old ass off guard.  We finished our coffee, thanked him for entertaining us on the run, and headed back to get ready for our planned day at the beach in St. Tropez.
I had made the decision to rent a car while in France since having one had come in handy on my last few excursions. I would advise against this. The public transportation (during the day at least) is pretty great and there is SOOO much traffic in and around Nice. But since we had the car at our disposal, we decided to take a drive out to St. Tropez.
I absolutely love trashy magazines like US weekly and read them far more frequently than I would like to admit. My little tradition is curling up with my magazine and eating a bag of Swedish fish. It is a wonderful pastime that I look forward to. I always say that if I was Catholic, this would be what I would give up for lent. In reading these beautiful displays of journalism, I have noted that St. Tropez is the place to vacation in the South of France.  I can only say now that I think famous people are retarded. The town is pretty, yes, but there are so many other beautiful places that don’t cost an arm and a leg to enjoy! Perfect example: I ordered a bottle of still water. They brought me an evian and bill for 9€!! That is, like, $12! We were also charged 22€ per person for a lounge chair.
You may be wondering why we would pay so much for a chair, and for this I have an explanation.  The town of St. Tropez does not have a beach so you have to go to the outlining area. We just plugged in St. Tropez into the navigation so we were on our own for finding a beach. Luckily there are signs that read “Les plages” for you to follow, which we did. We reached an area that had a handful of beaches and decided to park. We gathered our gear for the day ahead (towels, food, and most importantly wine) and made our way to the beach.  We all stopped in our tracks when we reached the water. Everyone was naked! We had unintentionally stumbled upon a nude beach and now we weren’t sure what our next move was going to be. There was penis everywhere, and when the men emerged from the water they looked like creatures from the blue lagoon coming to attack and I was slightly terrified.  We didn’t want to look like the typical puritan Americans that can’t handle nudity, but there was also no way in hell that I was going to participate while with my dad. Plus, I think I was making people uncomfortable because I couldn’t stop staring at penis.
We meandered about for a while, my uncle Johnny beaming with happiness, when we saw there was a little beach club that was separate from the nude side. The only problem was that you had to rent a beach chair to stay there. So this is how we spent 132€ on beach chairs (we got one for free).
Since my father was having some difficulty, we decided that we would have dinner near the Nice train station. We read in Rick Steve’s book about a small Brasserie that was affordable and delicious. I mention this because I HIGHLY recommend this restaurant. It is called Voyageur Nissart and it was the best meals we had during our trip. They offer 3-4 course meals for under 20€ and bottles of wine for 11€. I had the most amazing rabbit since S.E.R.E school (survival school for the Army) after not eating for 5 days and finally getting a rabbit that we killed, skinned, and cleaned with a can of beer we had found in the woods. It had tasted like bacon, although I think that is only because I had wanted it to taste like bacon. I am WAY off topic at the moment. Voyageur Nissart- great restaurant.



Enjoying dinner
 
After dinner, the girls and I decided to walk around the old city and have a few drinks.  It being 2200, it was past my parent’s bedtime and they decided they were going to catch a train home. I love my parents and I usually don’t find them too incompetent unless technology is involved.  A few days prior to our trip I had decided to stay the night at my boyfriend Chris’ house so we could watch the final episode of “Game of Thrones.” I had set up my computer and TV for my parent’s so they could watch “Parks and Recreation” and showed them what they needed to do to start the next episode and expand the screen. We were about 5 minutes into “GoT” when my phone rang.
Dad- “We can’t figure out how to make the picture big on the computer”
Me- “Go to the bottom right corner where the little box is and click it.”
Dad- “What little box?”
I had put my dad on speaker phone because it is always funny to hear parents when they are confused, and thought this would be a nice treat for Chris to understand where I came from. He was shaking his head and trying to control his laughter.
Me- “Dad, hold on. I will take a picture of what you need to do and email it to you. I will call you back in a few minutes.”
Chris had already closed out GoT and was pulling up Parks and Rec.
Me- “Why are you closing GoT? I can just take a picture without changing shows.”
Chris- “I figure if they see Ron Swanson, they will be less confused.”
With my parents finally back to watching their show, Chris and I were able to settle back in to GoT. Twenty minutes later we got another call from my dad. They couldn’t remember how to put on the next episode.
Chris- “Man, I love old people.”
Knowing full well that my parents can have a difficult time figuring things out, I wrote out for them what platform they needed to be on, the direction of the train, the time of the train, and the stop they needed to get off at. At this point, I felt pretty comfortable that they couldn’t mess anything up. I was wrong.
When the girls and I arrived home at 0100 we found that my parents had only arrived about 15 minutes prior.
Me- “What  happened?”
Mom- “The train didn’t stop at our stop. We ended up in Monte Carlo.” This, by the way, was a perfect example of my mother’s exaggeration. What she meant to say was that they got off at Villefranche, one stop past the stop they needed. She just felt that saying Monte Carlo was more glamorous.
Me- “That is ridiculous!”
Mom- “We saw it pull into the station, but the doors never opened.”
Me- “Did you press the button?”
Mom- “That could be why the doors didn’t open.”
Yup, I also love old people.  But what I love more are the stories I get while traveling with them.