Monday, October 6, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part V: Dehydration

9 August 2014

Beginning of Day 2

You would think a person would learn their lesson in regards to water and hydration after running out the day prior, but I didn't. I packed the same 2 liter camelback and chose not to fill the extra 1 liter bottle because I thought it would be too heavy, and that I would ration my supply better. That didn't happen.

Like the previous day, the hike started off rather well. I have found that, although exhausting, I am able to CLIMB a mountain.  Aside from one section where I felt as if I was hanging off the side of a sheer cliff, trying to get from rock to rock, with a nice little 400 ft drop, the ascent was ok. The issue for me is the descent. We made great time on the way up, right on track with the guide book which had estimated the day to be about 6.5 hours (not including rest stops). However, the final three hours of the hike were all downhill, where the traveler had to traverse a steep hill made of loose dirt and scree (thousands upon thousands of loose rocks that slip underfoot and are the cause of many a rolled ankle). Our 6.5 hours quickly turned into 11 hours due to the fact that I moved at a glacial pace, trying not to kill myself.


A nice view

The sun was out in full force this particular day, and I acquired a rather nasty sunburn on my neck and shoulders that plagued me for the duration on the hike. By day five it was so bad, that it started to scab over. This unrelenting heat also affected my water consumption, and the 6.5 hours that I planned for was how I rationed my water. By hour nine, I was starting to feel the onset of dehydration.

It comes on you pretty quickly and almost unnoticeable to the affected. My legs started shaking and giving out on me (which I thought was just me being completely out of shape), then I began to feel dizzy. I kept pushing on when I noticed that I was no longer sweating anymore and I was beginning to feel like I was going to throw up.

Tania was getting worried, wanting me to stop and rest; but the sun was blazing and I wanted shade before I stopped to rest. By hour 10, I was singing songs from "The Little Mermaid" and waving to Ariel who was perched on a rock in the distance.

"Can you hear that?" I asked Tania, stopping by a rock to catch my breath. "It sounds like water- a stream of some sort...or perhaps it is the ocean and Ariel is guiding me to my salvation!"

"It is not water, just the rustle of the breeze in the trees." I could tell, even in my delirious state, that Tania was getting worried.

"Just sit here and relax" she told me while patting my head. "I will run ahead to the refuge, it shouldn't be too much farther, and bring you back some water."

I brushed her hand away frustrated. "I am fine! I swear I hear water!!"

I got back up and continued on. It took another 20 minutes, but we eventually stumbled upon a water source, a beautiful little stream hidden in the trees.

"See??" I looked at Tania triumphantly. "I told you Ariel would save us!"

We sat by the stream for about 45 minutes. I washed my face with the cool water, and we filter enough for me to drink about 1 liter. We had tablets of electrolytes that we placed in the water bottle, and I rested and drank. My visions of Ariel disappeared to my disappointment, and we continued on to the Refuge.

During our dinner of chicken and rice, Tania retold the story of my hallucinations while I drained my blisters. Another successful day of hiking...sort of.


Tania enjoying some down time

Thursday, October 2, 2014

GR20, Corsica Part IV: D-Day

8 August 2014

 
The beginning

Good fucking lord, I want to die! I would have knocked Tania over after the first 3 hours to end this miserable hike if she would have been anywhere near me, but she pretty much kicked my ass and was so far ahead that I couldn't see her at most times...Bitch.

I knew today would be difficult, a "trial by fire" as our guide books stated, with a 5,000ft ascent into oblivion. It began rather peacefully, with a constant ascent that was pretty steep and difficult, but not impossible. We made it to the first clearing in good time, and chose this point to enjoy our lunch. We ran into two Italian girls that we had met yesterday on the train to Calvi who were also sitting, enjoying the view.

About an hour into our hike

After a good 45 min break, Tania and I put our packs back on and continued to march. This is where things got dodgy. I mentioned in a previous post that this was NOT a typical trail, but rather, scrambling (which up until this point I didn't know meant that you would be needing to use your hands to climb- between mountain climbing and rock climbing). About three hours into our day, we reached our first scramble area.



First Scramble- Can you see Tania??
 
I have noted some lessons learned thus far:
 
1. Learn what a scramble is before you arrive at that portion of the trail so you don't pee in your pants in fear. I would suggest rocking climbing once or twice in advance with a bag that weighs as much as another person and see if you can do it. If not, don't go on the GR20.
 
2. If you bring walking poles, which I suggest to all that you do because they are amazing, make sure you buy the correct size. Not knowing anything about hiking poles, I just bought a pair and didn't look at them until I made it to the trail. Mine maxed out at 110cm, and I apparently need 120cm. I was hunched over in an attempt to use them during every decent. Pain in the ass.
 
3. BRING ENOUGH WATER!!! Unlike Tania who can be compared to a camel in that she can survive on one cup of water per week, I went through my camelback about halfway through the trip (I drank it as quickly as an alcoholic downs a beer after not having a drink in three days) and had to suffer the rest of the way using my saliva as hydration. That doesn't work, in case you were wondering.
 
4. Fuck food, it is too heavy. Just carry snacks and eat at the refuges
 
5. Why in G-ds name did I bring a 5lb solar panel???
 
6. I would highly suggest NOT making the GR20 the hike that pops your trekking cherry.
 
After seven hours of misery, we arrived at our first refuge where I dramatically dropped to the ground and kissed the soil that was to be my bed for the evening. We set up camp, and spent the rest of the evening eating chocolate and talking to some other travelers about the day. I popped my first blister of the hike, and stared out at the view. Day 1 complete
 
 
Our yogurt cups that we carried all 10 days